Saturday, March 28, 2015

Penang, Malaysia + Lee Kuan Yew

Penang!

Last weekend, I travelled to Penang, Malaysia with my mom. Penang is an island in northwestern Malaysia that is famous for its delicious food, eclectic culture, and friendly people. The main attraction of Penang is the district of Georgetown because of its strong colonial influence and status as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Main highlights included (but are not limited to): biking around Georgetown, eating biriyani with my hands like a local, taking a Malaysian (Nyonya) cooking class, and visiting temples. 

Street art in Georgetown (the Bicycle one is the most famous)

They gave me a fork and knife expecting me to actually use it... HA.
Biking around Georgetown
Cooking class with my mom!
Very talented local, let me actually "play" his guitar too!

My mom noticed that this local looked Hispanic, and it turned out that he is originally from Peru! 
The oldest and largest mosque in Penang

My fellow classmates and Pearly (the teacher)
Gurney Hawker Centre (a large food court)
Ball is life.

Clan Jetties, a water village established by Chinese immigrants

The water isn't quite like Thailand or the Philippines...


There's even "street art" in the Clan Jetties 
Kek Lok Si, perhaps the most beautiful temple I've visited in SE Asia 

I've never seen so many turtles in my life
We took a cable car up to Penang Hill, the tallest point of Penang 
We met a friendly group of locals celebrating a birthday party (for Gino!) at the top of the hotel we stayed at!
Khoo Kongsi 
Very friendly street food vendor at Penang Hill that let me and my mom try a lot of his food
Special South Indian Chickpea Masala
Me and my friend Mr. Tan, the nicest and most knowledgable cab driver there is
Had to bring back some durian coffee for my Singaporean friends!

My Perspective on Lee Kuan Yew

As I am sure many of you are aware, Signapore's founding father, Lee Kuan Yew, passed away at 91 this week. I've had a few people from back in the states ask me how Singaporeans are handling this and to ask what my thoughts are on Lee Kuan Yew. Here's my two cents. 

Stores closed. Events were cancelled. Profile photos on Facebook changed. People mourned.

The MRT -- the public transportation system in Singapore -- remained open 24 hours so that people could pay their respects to LKY at the parliament building. The line to see LKY's casket was consistently about 8 hours just to spend about 5 seconds in front of his casket. In fact, I have a Singaporean friend who entered the line at 2am and did not even get to LKY's casket until 11am. It takes a very special human being to inspire thousands -- actually, millions of people -- to wait in line for that amount of time through the night. 

What I've noticed about Singaporeans' view on LKY is that even if people may have differing opinions on some of his policies or actions, everyone deeply respects him and finds him to be a noble man. He may have been stern and at times authoritarian, but there is no disputing the fact that through his leadership Singapore was able to develop from the third world fishing port it once was to the cosmopolitan metropolis it is today.

After seeing how affected Singaporeans (and the whole international community, really) is by LKY's passing, I look forward to learning more about him this summer by reading a couple of his books. If you're interested in learning more about LKY, there are many great articles online that I recommend.

Washington Post, Kissinger (Pretty American-centric)
New York Times, Cohen  (Pretty balanced)
The Independent, Cheng (While I don't necessarily agree with this author's viewpoint, this one is definitely worth reading if you are a Westerner)

In other news...

This will probably be my final blog post until finals are over, which ends on the 28th of April. I'm really trying to focus all of my energy on classes. Unlike many exchange students, I'm even postponing my travel plans until after finals end. That said, I have decided that I will travel to Vietnam, Japan, and South Korea before returning back home and starting my summer internship!

However, even though finals may end on the 28th, I will remain active on this blog for the month following finals. I feel as though it is necessary to continue the blog after finals end so that I may have time to reflect on my experiences and articulate them properly back to you all. I anticipate that the blog posts following finals will be among my best, as I already have a general sense of what I will share. 

In the meantime, please feel free to catch up on any of my previous blog posts -- wish me luck in my classes!

Wednesday, March 18, 2015

Notes on Traveling (for Exchange Students)

After spending more than 3 months studying abroad in Singapore, I've had the privilege to travel to a few different countries in Southeast Asia. I would like to share some thoughts on traveling to you all, especially to those that are interested in studying abroad and traveling.

Fear of Missing Out (FOMO)

Whether you are currently studying abroad or will in the future, one must understand that there will always be places you wish you could have gone but simply didn't have time to visit. However, as students studying abroad, our primary obligation is to do just that: study. This, of course, limits the amount of time one has to travel and therefore makes it difficult to go to all of the places one would like to go to. 

Understanding that travel time is limited, many exchange students try to cram multiple destinations into short 3 or 4 days trips. I will admit, even I have been guilty of this to an extent. The result of this is a very surface-level experience that can also be quite stressful to plan logistically. 

There comes a point -- for many exchange students -- where traveling just becomes checking off boxes from a list. Don't fall inside that trap. There is a strong sense of FOMO in the exchange student community, which is not conducive to a truly enjoyable or rewarding study abroad experience. Life's about making decisions, and with those decisions come trade-offs (e.g. depth vs. breadth).

Rather than exhibit FOMO, I challenge people to exhibit JOMO: Joy of Missing Out (shoutout to the Center for Positive Organizations for sharing this concept with me!). It is not healthy to put too much pressure to travel during every lasting opportunity. Recognizing this, I took a few weeks off from traveling to relax and focus further on my studies. 

I will, however, be traveling this weekend to Malaysia with my mom! But rather than go to multiple places and stretch ourselves thin, we will instead explore one part of Malaysia: Penang.

Understanding One's Privilege 

Those studying abroad must also understand that many of the locals have not travelled to many of the places we have travelled to, nor do they live the lives that we live. For example, while I had the opportunity to go to the Philippines, many of my Singaporean peers haven't. This applies not only to places outside Singapore, but also within. Some Singaporeans haven't been to Sentosa Island or even Chinatown, but one would be hard-pressed to find an exchange student that hasn't. 

Given this reality, I think that many people studying abroad erroneously perceive a given country's quality of life to be higher than what it actually is. When you travel to a place, you are exposed to a different side than what someone who lives there is exposed to. Not only do you naturally see the country in a different, more positive light, but you also engage in more fun, perhaps expensive activities that those living in the country likely don't partake in. 

We as exchange students ought to be more aware of these privileges when we formulate opinions on these places. These privileges distort our understanding of a place, since they shield us from aspects of a country that can be -- for lack of a better word -- less glamorous.

Taking Photos, a Trade-off

There is also a trade-off in taking photos that I think is often overlooked not only by exchange students, but by people in general. 

Why do we take photos? In my view, we take photos to have something to look back on and to remember a particular moment in time. Without photos, we may forget exactly how a moment felt -- or we may have trouble remembering what we did altogether. 

On the flip side, taking too many photos defeats the very purpose of a photo, since it results in not having any context or meaning to the photos. The result is many photos but little memories (unless you consider the act of taking the photo as a memory). 

Thus, we should recognize that when we take photos, we are making a trade-off between enjoying the moment and capturing the moment. Everyone has their own implicit "sweet spot" for this trade-off, but I think it is important that we be more aware of where we fall on this spectrum. For instance, I have toned down on the number of photos I take abroad so that I am more on the "enjoying the moment" side of the spectrum than I was previously.

Tuesday, March 10, 2015

Thailand: Take Two!

I enjoyed Thailand so much during my weekend trip to Bangkok that I decided to go back to see more of the country for recess week. As I mentioned in an earlier blog post, Thailand is very culturally rich and diverse. This time around, I visited Southern Thailand (Phuket, Ko Phi Phi, and Krabi) and Northern Thailand (Chiang Mai). 

In Phuket, we went elephant trekking, visited the Big Buddha and Wat Chalong ("Wat" means temple), watched the sunset, and then went to a local night market.

Elephant trekking with my parents

The Big Buddha
Thailand's natural beauty
It is very common for both locals and tourists to enjoy the sunset

Outside the Big Buddha, you can donate money to the Temple and write a message on a bell
Inside Wat Chalong

In Ko Phi Phi, we went island hopping, cliff jumping, and enjoyed the beach. This beach was easily the most beautiful I've ever seen, but it is packed with tourists.

Enjoyed relaxing and reading for class here

In Krabi, we went to Railay Beach, which was also nice, but the main highlight was visiting Tiger Cave Temple. The temple is located on the top of a hill and requires you to climb over 1,200 stairs. The journey up was tough and stands as one of my foremost life accomplishments. It was very rewarding to make it to the top and enjoy a 360 degree view of Krabi, especially because you know that you physically climbed up it. Moreover, the peacefulness and tranquility at the top was unlike anything I've experienced in my life. I truly felt at peace. After this experience, I have become interested in learning more about Buddhism and meditation.

Railay Beach
You don't realize how much this is until you actually do it...
At the top!
Crazy to see how high up you climb at the end
WE MADE IT

While I loved all of Thailand, my absolute favorite was Chiang Mai. The people were very friendly, life was calm, and the food was (somehow) even better than the other places I travelled to in Thailand. We visited various different temples, explored the historic "Old City", enrolled in a Thai cooking class, and even had the opportunity to speak to Monks at a program called "Monk Chat." Through this experience, we had the opportunity to learn more about Buddhism and Thai culture, while the monks (who were English majors at their University) were able to practice their English. This, to me, is a genius idea and should be applied to other places of worship (or any place where one group wishes to practice English and another group of English speakers wish to learn more about that culture), as it presents an opportunity for meaningful exchange between two groups. Toward the end of our discussion, we asked the monk what his favorite TV Shows were, and, to our surprise, he responded Teen Wolf and Vampire Diaries. May this serve as a reminder not to judge others without first having met them, as I know I at least was not expecting that from a monk.

After monk chat, my friend Jeevan and I met a friendly teacher from the local Buddhist School/Temple. He recognized us as tourists and began sharing with us the values of Buddhism, Thai culture, and giving us recommendations for places we should see in our limited time in Chiang Mai. He was a monk for 6 years, and has since been teaching English, history, and physical education for 15-16 year old boys. He was nice enough to even offer us a ride to where we needed to go, since we couldn't find a cab or tuk-tuk to get there. On the way there, he expressed that "friendship and family are the most important things there are in life" and discussed karma with us. To have this impromptu encounter with a local was really cool, and I am sure he has plenty of good karma coming his way in the future.

"Chat with us about Buddhism, Monk's life, and Thai culture. Don't just look from afar and walk away."
Words of advice from the monks
The local thai market where I shopped for my ingredients for the cooking class
Chef Mark in action... Thai food is the best!
The best Cow Soi in all of Thailand, according to a local. It was delicious. I aspire to cook Thai food like this one day.
THE SPICIEST food one could have... papaya salad! 

This is the temple where we met the local, Wat Phra Singh
Legend has it that an earthquake destroyed the temple and then they decided to keep it as is

In other news...

I have accepted an offer to intern with New Sector Alliance in Chicago this summer! This program consists of New Sector’s Leadership Curriculum, an internship placement with a nonprofit organization, and a specific management-consulting project that I will work on over the course of the program and deliver for the nonprofit (more info on the program here). By some fluke, my sister actually will be participating in the same program, so I am very excited to spend time with her this summer as well!

Monday, March 9, 2015

Considering Studying Abroad at NUS?

My study abroad advisor back at the University of Michigan requested that I talk about what it's like to be an exchange-student at the National University of Singapore in order to help future students better understand what NUS is like compared to UMich. Before deciding on NUS as the place I'd like to study abroad, I remember spending countless hours poring over study abroad blogs from other NUS exchange students. Hopefully, this blog post will serve as a useful source of information not only for UMich students, but also for any students considering NUS for study abroad.

Classes

While you may have some trouble getting the exact classes you want, there are many interesting classes to choose from and the professors are generally very intelligent. Professors come from all around the world; mine come from the United States, Finland, and Korea. Every professor has their own unique accent that may take some time to get accustomed to, but this of course is part of the study abroad experience and ultimately you will become a better listener.

The workload is more or less the same as UMich, except you don't physically turn in as much work as you would at UMich. So, this means that your grade will overwhelmingly be determined by your final exam or just a couple of papers, which you will need to study more for than if they were given less weightage. Since you won't constantly be assessed on your work, you will need to be extra motivated to stay on top of your work. This, however, is usually how it is outside of the United States, especially in Europe. 

Grades

NUS is a very competitive school and ranks among the best in Asia. People here take their studies very, very seriously. Grades are distributed on a strict bell curve and, to my knowledge, all departments must adhere to this curve. You will notice that NUS -- and Singapore in general -- is meritocratic to a fault. Because employers in Singapore prioritize CAP (Singapore's term for GPA) very highly, people here have a strong incentive to study hard.

Unless you are assigned to work in a group project, people really have no interest studying together. 
You can't really blame the students here for this though, since the system is designed in a way where you do better if your peers do worse. It is, without exaggeration, a total zero-sum game. This is not at all conducive to a positive learning environment, nor is it conducive to learning how to work within teams, communicating ideas, and developing other skills important for the real world. Sadly, NUS students are very stressed about grades here (as they rightly should be). This does not apply so much to the exchange students, though, because many take their classes pass/fail and while the curve makes it difficult to do well in a class, it makes it several times harder to actually fail.

However, grades alone shouldn't deter you from studying abroad at NUS. Remember, if you're a UMich student you can always elect to take your classes pass/fail so long as you decide within the first 3 weeks of classes! I personally didn't because doing so would mean that the credits I earned wouldn't be able to count toward my major requirements; however, if you just need general credits, then maybe consider taking classes pass/fail. 

Social Life

Despite the academic life being quite rigorous, there still are plenty of opportunities to have a strong social life at NUS as an exchange student. As long as you are living in the part of campus known as U-Town, you will always see students outside playing frisbee, being involved in student organizations, and just hanging out. The NUS iCare team, which is a group of NUS students that helps to organize events for exchange students, helps with making friends early on in the semester. They are also very happy to share insights on Singaporean culture and give tours around Singapore. The greatest asset when it comes to social life at NUS though, at least for the exchange students, is with the opportunities for easy travel to other countries in Southeast Asia during breaks and long weekends. Check out the rest of my blog to see where I've travelled so far!

Mark's "Pro-Tips"

  • Make an effort to interact with Singaporeans while in Singapore (seems obvious, no?). Don't just make friends with other exchange students. Good opportunities to make friends with Singaporeans include: putting in your due work for group projects, joining student organizations (called "interest groups" at NUS), and introducing yourself to the locals where you live. 
  • Use NUSMods.com to browse classes instead of the official NUS course directory. It draws all its information from the official NUS directory but also has a much cleaner and user-friendly interface.
  • Try to do some planning for where you would like to travel and what you would like to in Singapore before arriving. That way, you will have more time to focus on your classes while you're here. 
  • Join the "Singapore 101 Programme" offered by NUS. This will allow you to learn about Singaporean culture and meet other exchange students in the program early on.

Have more questions?

Email me at mrhaidar@umich.edu. I am happy to help!

Sunday, March 8, 2015

What is an "Asian"?

Now 8 weeks into the semester, I have had the opportunity to travel to Malaysia (Kuala Lumpur and Melaka), the Philippines (Manila and Boracay), and Thailand (Bangkok, Phuket, Ko Phi Phi, Krabi, and Chiang Mai). While I still have more travel plans for the semester and had intended to talk about all of the overarching takeaways at the end of the semester, I feel as though it would be useful to share one of my bigger observations now.

Southeast Asia: A Place of Incredible Diversity

It is really remarkable how much cultural diversity there is in such a relatively small region like Southeast Asia. Not only is there substantial diversity between these countries (e.g. Malaysia vs. Philippines), but there is also significant diversity within these countries (e.g. Northern Thailand vs. Southern Thailand). 

It is not as though everyone in Malaysia is ethnically Malay, nor is it the case that everyone in Thailand is ethnically Thai. It is not the case that everyone in the Philippines is Catholic, nor is it the case that everyone in Thailand is Buddhist or that everyone in Malaysia is Muslim. Rather, the reality is that these countries (most notably Singapore and Malaysia) are very much integrated, multicultural societies. 

Of course, the differences in Southeast Asian culture extend far beyond just ethnicity and culture, but to give justice to all these differences would surely require more than one blog post, which brings me to my main point...

The Dangers of Pan-ethnic Identities 

Back in the US, it is pretty commonplace for people to classify others as "Asians." Now, I'm sure that no one does this out of malice, but it really is a gross overgeneralization that isn't all that telling of the cultural practices and values with which one identifies. Categorizing people from Asia into one single group is, in my opinion, no more helpful or informative as it would be to categorize people from Europe, Africa, or North America for that matter. By lumping all people whose countries are located within Asia into one single category known as "Asians," it implies that there are in fact very little differences between these groups when in reality the differences are immense.

Even within Thailand, for example, not everyone identifies as being "Thai." People from Northern Thailand will often instead identify as being "Lan Na" because, in their view, Lan Na culture is significantly different from Thai culture. In fact, people from Northern Thailand and Southern Thailand are so culturally different that despite their shared nationality as Thais, they would have a very difficult time communicating with one another because of different languages/dialects.

This need not apply only to Asians. Arabs, Africans, Europeans, Hispanics/Latinos, or any other socially constructed pan-ethnic identity unfairly lumps people into categories. This, however, is not to say that all pan-ethnic identities are equally misrepresented, which depends mostly on power dynamics and social positioning.

Some pan-ethnic identities are more known to be pan-ethnic identities than others, which therefore implies that some people know that there is more to a person that the pan-ethnic identity they are lumped into. Coming from the US and having had no exposure to Asia before this semester, I was socially positioned to not be as aware of the nuances within "Asian" culture. Conversely, for someone from, say, Thailand, he or she would likely be socially positioned to not be as aware of the nuances within "Hispanic/Latino" culture.

So... does this mean we shouldn't use pan-ethnicities?

The core problem with using pan-ethnicities is that it often leads to people forgetting about the diversity and variety that goes into these pan-ethnic groups. As long as we understand that there are vast underlying differences within these pan-ethnicies we use to categorize people, then I don't have much of a problem with people using them. But if we disingenuously use these pan-ethnicies without realizing their limitations, then I think it can be detrimental to real cultural understanding.